11. February 2010 by admin.

The world of on-camera is digital now.  The HD formats and high resolution cameras can reveal more than our naked eye can perceive.  Makeup artist go as sheer as they can get away with.  I generally try to use concealer and powder only if possible.  But there are definitely times when more coverage is needed.  Choosing the color of your foundation and/or powder coverage is MOST important to looking your best on-camera.  It’s also great advice for everyday wear.  The biggest mistake women make is matching the foundation/powder to the skin on their face.  You should be matching it to your neck.  When making a choice for a client, I actually like to swab a color in three places; the center of the chest where the neck meets, off center in the middle of the neck, and just under the jawline   If I find the foundation/powder blends well in these spots then I’ll swab it onto the face.  About 50% of the time it is a little lighter than the skin color of the face.  That’s okay.   Why?  The skin on the face suffers more from weather, discoloration, breakouts, tanning, etc…and that causes a surface color difference from your neck.  If I were to match a color on your face that is darker than your neck, the camera would magnify the color difference and you would look rather bizarre on camera; like a floating head!  The skin on the face, neck and chest should flow as one color.  Now that might mean you feel paler than usual but fear not!  There are ways to warm up for the camera, and remember, in post production they usually warm up skintone for the finished product.  As always, you have to blend, blend, blend!  

 How can you warm up your skin tone?  Stay away from bronzers, first of all.  They have metallic flakes in them that are meant to shimmer.  On camera it looks awful.   Warm up your skin by applying a darker matte tanned powder to the sides of the cheeks (like you would a bronzer) and also across the forehead.  Blend, blend!  Use your powder over it to soften it up if you feel it looks too strong. Then I like to take my cheek color and dust it on the apples for that suntanned look.  Generally I will use a matte or lightly shiny cheek like Mineral powder or crème.  Sometimes even a dab of clear lipgloss on the cheeks for that super shiny look for an everyday look.  If in doubt, stay matte.

Finally, the next mistake in selecting your base/powder is the light you are using to make a choice. I always use natural light.  Fake light, like store lighting or makeup lights, are not near as truthful as natural light; “the light that doesn’t lie.”  As inconvenient as it might seem, taking a handheld mirror to the makeup counter and then running to the outside door after dabbing it on your skin will make the decision much clearer and easier.  The natural light will demand perfection and when you see a color that disappears, you’ve hit the jackpot!

Now, there are exceptions to this advice.  Women, and sometimes men, will have a drastic color difference on their face versus their neck.  This is usually surface skin conditions such as rosacea, Retin-A, hyperpigmentation, etc…  It is then that I choose a color in the middle; darker than the neck yet lighter than the face.  The coverage has to be denser for this skin issue so the quality of a base and powder is very important.  The base should have excellent blendability and coverage.   It should also be buildable so that layers can be added without losing the integrity of a flawless coverage.  When changing the color of skin, the quality of the product becomes a deal maker or breaker on camera.  If you have this skin challenge then fill your makeup kit with the appropriate products and develop a great habit of blending.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

10. February 2010 by admin.

Dreary, cold weather!  Besides making you yawn and yearn for the warmth of the fireplace, what does the skin do when exposed to the dry warm indoors to the dry cold outdoors over and over again?  Dry up.  With little to zero humidity in the air it is quite common to experience flakey dry patches and tightness in the cold wintertime.  Product I love?  Try Nivea crème in a 1 oz. small blue pan that costs around $1.00.  Even oily skin can experience flakiness and a little dab of Nivea works wonders.  Work it into naked skin or even mixed with your foundation.  During the day dab a little onto the flakey area, (over foundation and powder!) tapping into the skin with your finger.  No rubbing.  Lightly powder over to knock out shine.  The size is perfect to keep in your purse or makeup kit and can last a long time. Good stuff. 

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

3. February 2010 by admin.

For my friends who are actors and auditioning for on-camera work I want to educate you on what the industry expects of how makeup is applied for when you get the job.  The best way to understand this is to look at the commercials and/or print ads in magazines.  Take a super close look at the mom’s and ladies in their late 30’s and 40’s and you will see nearly naked makeup.  Mascara is really the only noticeable thing and that’s if you are looking closely.  I bring this to your attention so that your expectations of what you will look like in the finished product are real.  Most of us past 30 put on more makeup in our everyday life and it can be a bit of a shock to feel so stripped back and pale.  Now, there are ways to conceal, cover and enhance that are sheer and natural but even then, less is more.  I know of a makeup artist who was working on “Up In The Air”.  When the director saw in the camera that the eyeliner on the actress was noticeable he went off and yelled about it! 

So, that’s great motivation to take care of your skin.  Eat healthy, look into retinol or AHA products to even out your skin tone, make sunblock your religion and make peace with what you look like with your face having little to no makeup.    

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

3. February 2010 by admin.

Bridal makeup can be very rewarding to apply.  It is such an important day in a woman’s life and with all eyes upon her it’s important for her makeup to make her feel radiantly beautiful.  The most challenging thing with bridal makeup can be the expectations.  I have had ladies show me images torn from magazines with a desire to look just like that, however the problem is that with today’s over-retouched images getting that “exact” look is impossible.  It can be a process of translating their vision into a more realistic appearance.  What also needs to be considered is the grooms taste.  In reminding a bride that her future husband will be staring into her eyes he might have a little to say in how much makeup she wears. 

 Generally, bridal makeup, as shown in the before and after images that follow, capture a blushing and glowing bride.  Soft shimmery pinks, crème or shimmery pink powder on the cheek with a brighter lip are most appealing.  Remember, you will be looking at these images in years to come so trendy looks can quickly become outdated.What helps determine the application and types of products used is location of wedding, (outside in the heat?) time of day, (is it natural light, candle, indoor light?) how long she will be wearing the makeup (9:00 am to 12:00 am?)  These details help me decide what type of base she should wear and if waterproof products should be applied. As always, with brides, a run-thru is a must so that she knows exactly what to expect

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »